Semitone: Knitweave
Issue 39: Winter 2021 features the stunning Semitone pullover, designed by Valerie Ng! Semitone uses a variety of techniques, some you'll be familiar with and others that might be completely new to you.
Valerie has created a set of tutorials for some of the more intricate or intimidating techniques to guide you through creating your very own Semitone! Thank you Valerie!
The pattern on the body of the Semitone sweater is worked using the Knitweave technique, a technique that is more commonly seen in machine knitting. The public side of the fabric produced is, in fact, the "wrong side" of the fabric during the making process and the body of the sweater is, therefore, worked inside out.
There is a main yarn (background) and a weaving yarn. It gives more desirable results when the weaving yarn is thicker than the main yarn. For this sweater, the yarn used for weaving is of the same weight as the main yarn but held double throughout. Experiment with different colour and texture combinations for a different look!
When working with the Knitweave technique, patterns are formed by laying the weaving yarn over and under the purl bump of the stitch created by the main yarn, hence the name, knit-weave. The weaving process is similar to when catching floats in stranded colourwork knitting.
Yarn used in this tutorial:
BC Garn Semilla GOTS (Sport Weight; 160m/50g; 100% Merino)
Main Yarn: White; held on the right
Weaving Yarn: Lilac; held double on the left
Work to the stitch where the Knitweave pattern begins.
Introduce the weaving yarn. Leave a tail on the front of work and bring the weaving yarn to the back.
Weaving Yarn Laid on Top:
Step 1:
Insert right needle into the stitch to be worked, bring weaving yarn over the right needle.
Step 2:
Wrap right needle with main yarn, going under the weaving yarn.
Step 3:
Pull main yarn through to create a stitch and remove the original stitch from left needle as usual. Note that the weaving yarn is now sits on top of the purl bump of the stitch worked on the back of the work.
Weaving Yarn Laid Under:
Step 1:
Insert right needle into the stitch to be worked, bring weaving yarn under the right needle.
Step 2:
Wrap right needle with main yarn, going on top of the weaving yarn.
Step 3:
Pull main yarn through to create a stitch and remove the original stitch from left needle as usual. Note that the weaving yarn is now sits under the purl bump of the stitch worked on the back of the work.
For consecutive weaving-yarn-laid-on-top or weaving-yarn-laid-under stitches, simply repeat the relevant steps. The weaving yarn will end up spanning across several stitches and create a float. Be mindful to spread the stitches on the left needle from time to time to avoid the fabric scrunching up, just as with normal stranded colourwork knitting.
At where the Knitweave pattern ends on a round, simply bring both the main yarn and the weaving yarn to the front, ready to work the purl steek stitches (standard stranded colourwork purled).
Knit Weave Holding Both Yarns in Left Hand:
Weaving Yarn Laid on Top:
Step 1:
Hold the weaving yarn to the left of the main yarn. Insert the right needle into the stitch to be worked, reach under the weaving yarn.
Step 2:
Grab the main yarn and pull through to create a stitch.
Note that the weaving yarn now sits on top of the purl bump created by the stitch worked.
Weaving Yarn Laid Under:
Step 1:
Hold the weaving yarn to the left of the main yarn. Insert the right needle into the stitch to be worked, reach over the working yarn.
Step 2:
Grab the main yarn and pull through to create a stitch.
Note that the weaving yarn now sits under the purl bump created by the stitch worked.
